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| OUR PLATINUM |
| The Platinum we use in our
Body Jewellery |
| Platinum is the most elite of all
the precious metals and we use only 950 parts per
1000 quality known as 950/1000 platinum. It is
independently assayed (quality tested) and laser
hallmarked by the London and Sheffield Assay Office, England. Each item is hallmarked not
on the shaft but on the back of the main bead or
setting to eliminate any chance of dirt traps. We
only use wire or shaft thickness of 1.6mm (USA
gauge 14) which helps to eliminate the risk of
"ripping". If other thicknesses are
required we will be pleased to supply them if
specially ordered. The wire used is "hard
drawn" and is not cast, so eliminating the
chance of porosity. All our body jewels are made up
individually, by hand, at our workshop in London,
UK where we have specialised in platinum
jewellery for 15 years.
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| Our Ball Closure Rings |
| The platinum in the Ball Closure
Ring is especially hard to give it an excellent
gripping spring action to hold the ball in place.
The wire used for our BCR's is 1.6mm thick (USA
gauge 14) and the internal dimension across the
inside of the BCR is 12mm (0.472" ). All the
BCR's are hallmarked on the ball and in the case
of gem set balls the hallmark is on the back or
the ball setting so as not to show. If you want
different sizes please contact us and we will be
pleased to give you a quote and estimated
delivery time. |
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| Internally Threaded and
Externally Threaded Beads |
| Most body jewellery is normally
externally threaded, ie. the thread is found on
the bar and the bead end screws onto that. For
increased hygiene we can also supply internally
threaded jewellery where the thread is not on the
bar but on a stud attached to the bead end. The
threaded stud then screws into the bar
rather than onto it. |
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| externally threaded |
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internally threaded |
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| Quality Control |
| Our body jewelry has been tested
by the Sheffield Analytical Services in
Sheffield, England. They have been tested by
using both the Allution and ICP-OES tests. The
platinum body jewelry has passed and complies with
all the new EU nickel tests and are certified to
have been tested to BS EN 1810, BS EN 1811
including BS EN 12472 standards. They conform and
far exceed the requirements in the European
Nickel Directive 94/27/EEC and the UK legislation
"The Dangerous Substances and Preparations
(Nickel)(Safety) Regulations 2000". The
Platinum alloy contains no Nickel. |
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| Hallmarking |
| In the UK all Platinum has to be
hallmarked before it can be described as
Platinum. We use only 950 parts per 1000 quality
in line with most western European countries.
When the item is tested there is no negative
tolerance allowed in the quality. It was first hallmarked
in 1975, when it was given the hallmark of an orb
within a pentagon. The law was changed in 1999 to
bring it into line with Europe and the rest of
the main Western Countries where there are a
number of different qualities allowed.
As there is only
a very small area on each jewel available to be
used for hallmarking, only our Makers Mark
"R&R" (or sponsors mark for those
companies who do not make their own), the quality
mark "950" and the hallmark for
London and Sheffield showing which "Hall" or Assay
office tested and marked it are used. There are
other optional marks (the orb and date mark)
which can be applied.
The hallmark is
the original trade protection system that was
originally introduced in 1300 to ensure the
absolute quality of precious metal. Every piece
is individually tested and marked by an
independent Assay Office
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| For all Special Orders and
Enquiries |
| Please contact us by email via our
catalogue, info requests &
special orders page or fax on
+44-(0)20-8986-8884 or phone on +44 (0)20 8985
2679. We will be pleased to give you a quote and
estimated time for delivery. |
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| PLATINUM FACTS |
| What is Platinum |
| Using today's modern techniques it
takes 5 months to extract one troy ounce
(31.1gms) of platinum from ten tonnes of ore; for
gold it is only 4-5 weeks. It was not until the
mid-eighteenth century that scientists and
alchemists began to solve the problem of
producing this metal in its pure form. Platinum
formed such a strong natural alloy with its
sister group metals, that solutions of each metal
had to be eliminated before pure platinum could
be obtained. The other metals are rhodium,
ruthenium, osmium, palladium and iridium. No
other metal has the same properties of Platinum.
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It has
an extremely high melting point. |
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It is
very hard and durable. |
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Its
purity is almost entirely unaffected by
corrosive substances. It is a natural
catalyst. |
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It does
not oxidise, discolour or tarnish. |
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In
short platinum is virtually
indestructible. |
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| Why Platinum is so special |
All gems and jewels have three
attributes in common, they are beautiful, durable
and rare. Platinum has all these and more:
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It is
compatible with all skin type |
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It
produces no allergic reactions |
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It is
inert |
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It does
not discolour or tarnish |
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It is
extremely resistant to wear |
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It is
ideal for use with precious stones,
providing a secure and firm setting
because of its high resistance to heat
and other influences |
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It is
naturally white |
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It is
extremely dense, gives a very satisfying
heavy feel |
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It is
the most noble of all the precious metals
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It is
rare |
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It is
not affected by body oils and sweat
unlike 14ct gold |
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It does
not discolour or go black in the piercing
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Chlorine
or other chemicals associated with
swimming will not affect it |
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| Platinum jewellery is
non-allergenic and compatible with all skin
types. It is the only material suitable for the
electrodes in heart pacemakers. Platinum is an inert
element which is extremely robust and stable and
exceptionally resistant to corrosion. It is one
of the few metals unaffected by atmospheric
exposure, even in a sulphur polluted industrial
environment. It retains its polish and lustre up
to its melting point.
Platinum is ten
times harder to work that gold meaning that it is
ten times more wear-resistant. A piece of
platinum jewellery with fine patterns or fine
filigree work will not wear out fast. Wedding
rings made in the1930's with engraved designs
still have their designs clearly showing today
whereas in gold these designs would have worn off long ago.
Because of its
high tensile strength in very thin sections,
platinum is perfect for the setting of diamonds
and fine stones. Its strength holds them securely
with the minimum setting covering the stone and
its whiteness allows more light to reflect in and
out and show the true colour of the stones.
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| What is the difference
between Platinum and White gold? |
| Platinum is an element in its own
right and is a pure metal. It is alloyed with
other metals to improve its working qualities,
for example to make it harder, more malleable and
to enable multiple soldering. It is naturally
white and does not need plating with another
metal for "show". White gold is a manmade,
made-up metal, as gold is naturally yellow. 18ct.
gold is an alloy of 75% gold and 25% other
metals. The white metals used for the 25% can be
nickel, silver, manganese or palladium. As a
result of these alloys, white gold it is not
always suitable for body jewellery. Very often
the raw colour is a greyish gun metal with a
slight yellow tinge. To make it totally white it
is then plated with another metal (usually
rhodium) to give it a white look. This plating
will wear off in time.
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| How Platinum compares with
other metals |
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Platinum
95% |
Gold 95% |
Silver
92.5% |
Iron |
| Carat |
950 |
18ct.(yellow) |
Sterling |
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| Chemical Symbol |
Pt |
Au |
Ag |
Fe |
| Density |
20.6 |
15.5 |
10.5 |
7.7 |
| Melting point |
1750 |
900 |
890 |
1450 |
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| Its vital statistics
(figures for pure Platinum) |
| Chemical
Symbol |
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Pt |
| Density
(grammes/cc) |
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21.45 |
| Melting
point (°C) |
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1769 |
| Vickers
Hardness no.* |
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41 |
| Electrical
resistivity (microhm.cm at 0°C) |
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9.8 |
| Thermal
Conductivity (watts/metre/°C) |
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73 |
| Tensile
strength* (kg/mm²) |
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14 |
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| * = annealed condition As refined platinum it first
appears as grey, dusty granules. These are melted into
ingots of various sizes. In the UK and Europe the main
quality or carat of platinum is 950 parts per 1000 it is
alloyed to give greater flexibility in working
conditions. By alloying it with different metals,
different qualities are given to the alloy. To make an
easily worked copper is used and when an item is going to
be made by casting then cobalt is often used. It must be
remembered that only 5% is added to the alloy and so it
has no effect on the general qualities of Platinum. The
other metals themselves are not reactive.
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| About Platinum's sister metals |
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Palladium
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Rhodium
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Iridium
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Ruthenium |
Osmium
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| Chemical Symbol |
Pd |
Rh |
Ir |
Ru |
Os |
| Density |
12.02 |
12.41 |
22.65 |
12.45 |
22.61 |
| Melting
point(deg.C) |
1554 |
1960 |
2443 |
2310 |
3050 |
| Vickers
Hardness |
41 |
101 |
220 |
240 |
350 |
| Electrical
resisivity |
9.93 |
4.33 |
4.71 |
6.8 |
8.12 |
| Thermal
conductivity |
76 |
150 |
148 |
105 |
87 |
| Tensile
strength |
17 |
71 |
112 |
165 |
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| Most metals are used in industry in alloys
and catalysts. Rhodium is used in jewellery for plating,
often to cover up bad coloured white gold. Platinum is
used in a very powerful anti-cancer drug. |
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| OUR GEM STONES |
| We only use genuine natural gem stones cut
from crystals that have been formed completely by nature
without human interference. This is totally in keeping
with our philosophy of only using the best quality
materials. To maintain quality and ensure standards of
colour, cut and clarity we have a resident Fellow of the
Gemmological Association of the UK on the staff. Each
stone is individually selected for it own unique
characteristics and hand-set into the jewel. Stones used in the majority of
our pieces are Diamond, Blue Sapphire and Ruby. Other
stones can be supplied on special orders. These stones
are most suitable for body jewellery as they are
classified as "precious" stones and are all
very hard wearing.
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| Stone cuts and sizes |
| Stones are traditionally weighed in
carats. As stone weights are often very small this is
reflected in the size of a carat. One metric carat =
1/5th gram. A carat is then subdivided into 100 parts,
which are often called "points". Different types of gemstones will
have different weights as they are made of different
materials and have different densities. This is
illustrated in the fact that a round "brilliant
cut" diamond weighing .15 ct. will have to be
approximately .22 ct. in a sapphire or ruby to appear the
same size.
For a rough guide, a
round brilliant cut diamond 2mm wide will weigh approx.
.03ct, 3mm wide approximately .10ct and 3.5mm wide
approximately .15ct.
A historical note.
The carat weight originates from historic classical
times. It comes from the Mediterranean plant, the Carob
which is found all around that area. It has seeds that
are remarkably standard in size and weight and so were
used as standard weights around the Mediterranean sea
area. This is the origin of both carat weight and the use
of proportions of quality in precious metals.
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| Blue, Pink and Yellow Sapphires |
| Sapphire is able to be found in a wide
variety of colours. They are all colours except red which
is a Ruby. The two stones, Ruby and Sapphire are members
of the same crystal family. Sapphire is most often
thought of as blue, but other family colours are also
found. It is perhaps the toughest and most durable
gemstone available. It has a hardness of 9 on the MOHS
scale, harder than any other gemstone except diamond
which has a hardness of 10. |
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| Diamonds |
| Diamond is the hardest natural substance
known to man and has the brightest lustre of all
gemstones. There are four main factors to consider:
carat, colour, clarity and cut. We use good quality stones with colour H/I
and the clarity (or internal markings and inclusions) is
VS. The size is as required andmost of our stones are
round Brilliant cut with 58 facets. For other colours and
cuts we will be pleased to quote.
Black diamonds are
natural diamonds thast are ink black. They have the same
physical characteristics of diamond, being the hardest
natural substance in existence (10 on the MOHS scale).
This gives a bright adamantine lustre which reflects
light from the highly polished facets.
Its name comes from the
Greek and Latin "Adamas" which means
unconquerable.
It is traditionally the
symbol of love and trust. Magic powers attributed to it
are "If worn in battle it would dispel vain fears
and make the wearer courageous as well as magnanimous and
virtuous".
It was also supposed to
have the ability to baffle magic arts. It does have some
physical properties that could make people think this.
Along with its supreme hardness some stones will
fluoresce after exposure to strong sun or ultra-violet
light.
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| Conflict diamonds |
| All the diamoonds we use in our jewellery
have been sourced from legitamate suppliers in line with
the Kimberley process afgreed by the world's governments
at the World Diamond Congress. As from January 1st 2003 we will state on
all invoices for diamond jewellery:
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| "The diamonds herein invoiced have
been purchased from legitimate sources not involved in
funding conflict in compliance with United Nations
Resolutions. The seller hereby guarantees that these
diamonds are conflict free based on personal knowledge
and/or written guarantees provided by the seller of these
diamonds." |
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| Ruby |
| It is the second hardest natural gemstone
only after diamond. The stones we use are mined from the
earth and completely natural. Each stone is an individual
and cut and polished individually. It is the rich red
variety of the corundum family of gem stones that makes
it related to sapphire. |
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| Green Demantoid Garnet |
| Green demantoid garnet is one of the
rarest and most highly prized of all the garnet crystal
family. It has a lovely transparent brightness with as
much "fire" as diamonds. This effect is masked
only by its strong green colour. Its natural bright green
colour is caused by a trace of the element chromium. It
is found in the Ural Mountains of Russia and also in the
Congo. |
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| Platinum
Body Jewellery |
| by |
| Rider
& Rider |
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